Maintaining Hardwood Floorings Products from Edenside

House Climate and wooden floors
All homes have their own indoor climate. With that we mean the amount of moist in the air (humidity), the temperature, the type of heating and the amount of ventilation. Some factors you can control yourself, some are caused by outside conditions. In a comfortable home with slight humidity variation through the seasons, wooden floors react by expanding and shrinking. These changes may be noticeable. During warm, humid weather wood expands. During dry weather wood shrinks - usually during Winter. Just think of when you have the clearest views from a hill top: when it's cold - when the air can't contain much moist = low air-humidity = Winter. This is also the normal "heating season" your indoor climate can have an even lower humidity. This seasonal movement is a normal characteristic of wooden floors and it never stops, regardless of the age of the wooden floor.
If you notice gaps appearing between your boards in Winter then 9 times out of 10 there is nothing to worry about, these gaps will disappear again when the humidity gets higher. If your floor is expanding in a normally dry season, then you might have a moist problem (leak, large spillage of water or perhaps one of your pets had an 'accident').
If your floor is shrinking in a normally 'wet' season then the problem might have been caused by the moist contents in the flooring itself: higher than normally allowed (standard Oak normally between 8 - 12%) or the wood hasn't been stored 3 - 7 days in the room were it is installed to acclimatize to the normal house climate.
Some types of wood react more than others. Beech is known as a 'very nervous' wood. It can expand or shrink 7mm per meter width. By 'steaming' beech (giving the floor also it's characteristic pinkish/salmon colour) the reaction will be less. Solid wooden floors react more than Wood-Engineered floors. The crossed backing of Wood-Engineered floors stabilizes the reaction. This makes this type of flooring preferable in areas where there is more moist (kitchens, bathrooms), were temperatures can change quickly (consevatories) or on underfloor heating. Most important to keep your wooden floor (and in fact also yourself) healthy is to allow for a stable humidity in the house.

When humidity is higher (Summer, Autumn) wooden floors expand. A simple way to prevent excessive reaction is to open a window every day, even for 10 - 15 minutes, to allow the cumulated humidity to disappear. Alternatively, when you are away for a whole day: keep a small window upstairs open and keep all other internal doors open. In Winter and early Spring, the heating season, try to keep the humidity between 50 - 60 %. This can be done by having plants in house, ceramic water containers on radiators etc. when the humidity in house gets very low (30 - 40%) you will notice this yourself (dry skin, lips and even sore throats). A simple 'trick' to increase the humidity rapidly is to place damp (NOT dripping wet) tea-towels on radiators. Monitor the typical average air·humidity in your home by using an indoor minimum-maximum Hydrgmeter When you have underfloor heating you might notice these conditions during most seasons. To help minimize the effects we recommend the use of a humidifier (preferable with humidity monitor).

Living with Natural Hardwood Floors

Solid hardwood floors repay a little care with a lifetime of value. When you first glimpse a solid hardwood floor, you sense richness, warmth and natural beauty. Gradually, you get to know its distinct personality -- visual harmonies, the traces of history in the forest and in your home.

Take a closer look

Appreciate the color and pattern of the floor's strips, planks or parquetry. Read the grain: Is it bold-textured oak? Subdued maple or cherry? Check the condition of the underlying wood and the finish that protects it. Are there signs of neglect to erase (it's not difficult), or do you see a well tended surface that needs just a light touch to maintain it? Nature's diversity lets you create dramatic looks with unique textures, colors, patterns and styles of solid hardwood flooring.

Protect Your Solid Investment

Solid hardwood floors are among the easiest to keep clean. Protect their warmth and character with simple, everyday cleaning techniques. It's important to know how to prevent damage to your solid hardwood floors.

Prevention

DIRT and GRIT : Dirt, grit and sand are your hardwood floor's worst enemies. They act like sandpaper on the finish, causing scratches, dents and dulling. Place floor mats at entrances to trap dirt and prevent damage.
WATER AND OTHER SPILLS : Standing water can warp a poorly finished hardwood floor and can damage the finish. Simply wipe up all spills as they happen.
HARD CLEANERS : Avoid oil soaps. They can build up and create problems when it's time to put a maintenance coat on the floor. Instead, neutral pH cleaners made specifically for wood floors are recommended.
FURNITURE : Lift the furniture to move it --- avoid dragging. Felt pad contacts under the legs will help prevent scratches.
DENTS : Vacuum with a brush attachment -- don't use vacuums with beater bars.
SUN : Direct sun can discolour your hardwood floor. Close curtains and blinds or add sheer drapes to protect from the sun's intense UV rays.

Regular Care

SWEEP : Brooms with fine, exploded ends trap dust and grit effectively.
VACUUM : Canister vacuums with special bare floor attachments are the surest way to get rid of all the dirt and dust.
DUST MOP: Use a good dust mop --- one with a 12- to 18- inch cotton head ---- and a special dust mop treatment. Spray the treatment onto the mop head 12 to 24 hours before dust mopping.

Does Your New Hardwood Floor Look Old?

Perhaps your hardwood floors were installed just a few years ago, but you haven't taken care of them and now they look old. What can you do? Before you do anything, check the condition of the finish and the wood to see whether they need special cleaning or more involved repair.

What condition is your floor in?

Follow these steps to evaluate the condition of your hardwood floor and its finish.
Finish Condition: Has the finish been worn off or is it just dirty? See if the finish is dull, chipped, scraped or gouged. To test if the finish has worn off, begin in a high-traffic area and pour one to two tablespoons of water onto the floor. If the water soaks in immediately and leaves a darkened spot, the finish is worn and water can damage the wood. If the water soaks in after a few minutes and darkens the wood only slightly, the finish is partially worn. If the water beads on top, the surface is properly sealed. Repeat this test in low and medium-traffic areas.
Wood Condition: It the finish is worn, the wood may have been damaged. Are there stains, burns, cuts, gouges, holes, cracks or warped boards? If the wood is damaged, repair or replacement may be required before you deep clean your floor or apply a maintenance coat.
What type of finish does your floor have? The same care and maintenance techniques are used for all finishes in good condition, but when it comes to removing stains or restoring the finish, methods differ. If you don't know what kind of finish your floor has, ask our Hardwood specialist, or try these simple tests:
Surface Finishes:'(pre-finished floors, polyurethane, water-based urethane and catalyzed) nearly all floors installed today have surface finishes, mostly polyurethane. They are often glossy and may look like a layer of clear plastic on top of the wood. A small amount of paint remover in an inconspicuous area of the floor will cause the surface finish to bubble [unless it is a water-based urethane, in which case there will be no reaction). Surface finishes shield floors from harm by forming a protective layer on top of the wood.
Penetrating Seals: (acrylics, oils and waxes) Oils and waxes usually have a satin or matte finish. If you can feel the wood grain when you run your hand across the surface, it's most likely a penetrating seal. Paint remover will have no effect on a penetrating seal, but wax stripper or ammonia will soften and whiten the surface. Oils and waxes penetrate the surface of the floor protecting the wood from within.

When Your Hardwood Floor Needs Extra Care

Your hardwood floor will eventually need extra care. It's here that much controversy exists.
Damp Mopping Some professionals recommend that you damp mop your hardwood floor and others cringe at the suggestion. Just remember, if your floor's finish is in good shape and mopping is done correctly, the water won't penetrate even the oil and wax finishes. You're cleaning the finish, not the wood, so don't use water if the finish is in poor shape.
Damp Mopping Technique: This is the fastest and best way to deep-clean solid hardwood floors. Depending on how much use your floor gets, you may have to mop it as often as once a week. Use a neutral pH wood cleaner and water, or manufacturer recommended products. Wet the mop and wring so it's about half-dry. Wet the floor with the mop. Dip the mop into clean water, wring it as dry as you can and mop over the floor again.
Heavy-Duty Mopping: If floors are property sealed, the little extra water and cleaner required will not injure your hardwood floor, but use common sense.
Vinegar: Often prescribed to clean hardwood floors -- does nothing for removing grease and soil.
Maintenance Coat if you can't restore your solid hardwood floor's luster with deep cleaning or by simply buffing, you may want to apply a maintenance coat. Waxing is an easy way to restore your hardwood floor's natural beauty. Though a controversial treatment for surface finishes, floor polish or wax can give you a good·looking floor in a matter of minutes. If you don't want to apply a wax to your surface finish, consult a professional.
Pros: Wax can be easily cleaned, buffed and relaxed to make it look like its original condition. Wear and tear will be on the wax, not the finish. It is easily stripped and reapplied.
Cons: Waxing may limit some refinishing and re-coating options down the road. If not properly stripped, the wax can cause adhesion problems when re-Coating the surface. Only wax a surface finish if the original finish is in poor shape and you don't plan to refinish your floor in the near future.

Removing Stains In waxed Floors

No matter how careful you are a stain can still occur.
Water Stains: Rub the spot with No. 2 steel wood and relax. For more serious water stains, lightly sand with fine sandpaper, clean the spot with No. 1 or OO steel wool and mineral spirits or floor cleaner then refinish and wax.
Cigarette Burns: If not severe, the burn can be removed by rubbing with steel wool moistened with soap and water.
Heel and Caster Marks: Rub vigorously with fine steel wool and floor cleaner. Wipe dry and polish.
Ink Stains and Other Dark Spots: Use No. 2 steel wool and floor cleaner to clean the spot and surrounding area. Thoroughly wash the affected area. If the spot remains, sand with fine sandpaper, re-wax and polish. Stubborn stains may require that you replace the affected area.
Chewing Gum and Wax Deposits: Ice until the deposit is brittle and crumbles off. Pour floor cleaner around the stain so the fluid soaks under and loosens it.
Alcohol Spots: Rub the spot with liquid or paste wax.
Repairing Wax Finishes: Rub fine steel wood in a puddle of reconditioner or paint thinner and clean as you go. Apply wax and buff. Always start cleaning at the edge of a stain and work toward the centre so it won't spread.

Removing stains and repairing surface finishes

Use steel wood or sand paper to remove one or two complete layers of finish along the entire length of the board where damage has occurred. Remove all dust. Apply the same type of finish that was removed, being careful not to build additional layers on top of adjoining boards.

Squeaks

When the air in your home becomes extremely dry, your floor will lose moisture and contract. Conversely, when humidity is high, your floor will absorb moisture and expand slightly. As humidity stabilizes, hardwoods regain their original dimensions. Air conditioning in summer and humidifying in winter will keep your home's humidity comfortable for you and your floor. Prolonged cycles of shrinking and swelling of your hardwood floor may result in squeaks. They can be easily corrected.
Silencing Squeaks: Apply liquid wax, powdered soap, talcum powder or powdered graphite between floor boards that are rubbing together. If that doesn't stop the squeak, drive two-inch finishing nails through pilot holes on both edges of the board then hide the hole with matching colour putty or wax.

If you need to refinish or replace your hardwood floor, Edenside can provide a comprehensive hardwood floor sampling service, impartial professional advice, free measuring and estimating services through to expert fitting by our dedicated Hardwood fitting team.